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The choice of computer mouse is a very individual thing and depends on many factors:

  • How many hours a day you work at your computer?
  • Is your primary computer a desktop, a laptop or notebook or even a tablet; but you won’t be needing a mouse if it is a tablet, will you?
  • How big your hands are.
  • Do you want/need to use wired, wireless or bluetooth?
  • Whether you use the scroll function or not.
  • Do you suffer from wrist pain?

In some of these instances, the cheaper type mouse that comes with your computer will serve your needs adequately, but if you, like me work for about eight hours every day, the comfort and functions of your mouse are particularly important.
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On the left below is a photo of the first mouse I paid in excess of $60 for and never regretted it at all. It was comfortable in my largish hands and I didn’t ever suffer any wrist pain even though I worked at my PC sometimes up to 12 hours in a day. The day I dropped it on the tiled floor and broke it was a very sad day for me.
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Luckily I was able to buy another different model  but with the same profile within a couple of days. That one too has died lately so I’m looking for a new one, the Kensington mouse on the right below might well be the one since I have had a word in Santa’s ear!
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The logitech 2nd from left has served as my laptop mouse for a couple of years – it does look a bit battered, doesn’t it? Very similar profile and quite comfortable. The third photo shows my big hands – imagine my right hand wrapped around one of these tiny mobile models! However, I do carry a retractable one around in my laptop bag, as a backup and the occasions when an extra mouse is needed to test someone’s computer.

 History of the computer mouse

Tracking Technology

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Did you know that the name mouse is derived from “Manually Operated User Select Equipment”? This makes the argument about whether more than one computer mouse should be called computer mouses or computer mice (as we do for the rodent variety). It seems there has been no absolute ruling and generally computer companies avoid the issue by calling them mouse devices. Probably mouses is technically correct, but it sounds awkward and people tend to use mice for the plural form.
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The original design for a mouse was mechanical; the mouse had a ball in a compartment underneath and embedded around the edge were some little rollers. These would clog up from the dust and dirt from the user’s desk and needed cleaning to keep the mouse running smoothly (I did this countless times when clients or friends complained that their mouse wasn’t working properly). There were also four sliding type feet that clogged up as well, but these devices were a boon when the alternative was just keyboard shortcuts.
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Along came optical technology and made our lives so much easier. A small LED on the bottom of the mouse translates the movement of your hand into movement of the mouse pointer. Laser mouse devices work the same way, but using a laser instead af the LED. Laser mice have a higher dpi (dots per inch) which means they are more sensitive. For general users this extra sensitivity is not really needed, but graphic designers and gamers often appreciate the difference and make a laser mouse their choice.

Wired Connectors

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The early mice (see above) had a serial connector plug, see picture below. Serial ports were the original standard for interfacing any device with any other device on a computer. Later, a smaller 6 pin Mini Din was introduced by IBM on their PS/2 personal computer and this led to the connector type being called PS/2. For many years PC’s had PS/2 connectors for both keyboard and mouse.
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Some computers still come with two PS/2 ports, but more commonly they just have one, the USB (Universal Serial Bus) being the most common type of interface on all computers, whether PC or Mac. All USB ports look the same, but there is the original USB 1.1 and USB 2.0 which allows much faster (almost 40x as fast) or increased delivery capabilities. The ports are backwards compatible, so you can plug an old USB 1.1 device into a 2.2 port and it will still go.

Wireless

Originally the mouse device was connected to the computer by a cable using one of the technologies above, but nowadays you have the choice (an increasingly common one), to go with wireless. The early hassles of wireless connections seem to have been ironed out and wireless usually works very easily on any platform. Yay! So much more freedom.

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Radio Frequency – this is the most common type of wireless interface. A generic mouse operates on th 27MHz frequency and the mouse is powered by batteries. More expensive models can come with rechargeable batteries or charging docks for the mouse. They may use higher frequencies and have a longer range.
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bluetooth.
Bluetooth was useful for lower speed devices like a mouse and was common on early laptops. They are also battery powered and use the 2.4GHz radio frequency to communicate with a receiver/charger supplied with the package or some other Bluetooth adapter...
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RFIDRFID (Rapid Frequency Identification) technology uses radio-frequency electromagnetic fields to transfer data to automatically identify and track tags, which for a mouse is movement. Developed by a company called A4Tech, the mouse must be used in conjunction with the included mose pad, but the advantage is that it is wireless and no batteries are needed.
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Wheels and Buttons

Nearly all mouse devices nowadays have three buttons, with the middle button also being a scroll-wheel. This scroll wheel is essential in my opinion to navigate up and down your screen and on web pages. Any other buttons, typically on the left hand side for a right handed mouse or on the RHS for a left handed mouse, can be programmed by the user to carry out different functions.

 

Buying a computer mouse

A quick search on eBay will show just what a variety of choice there for buying a new mouse – some are fun, some are fancy, some for serious gamers and some ergonomic models for users like me. So how do you choose?

Narrow down the options with these requirements:

  • Do you want wired or wireless?
  • Do you need laser or will Optical suit your needs?
  • What size – full-sized, medium or small (also called compact,  mini, mobile, laptop etc)
  • PS/2 or USB? USB is more common but if your computer does not have many USB ports, but does have PS/2 ports, using a PS/2 mouse (or keyboard) will leave an extra USB port available for other peripherals.
  • Scrolling – do you need left and right as well as up and down?
  • Buttons – does your work (or play) require advanced features?

A great place to see what is available is on eBay, even when you want to shop locally. The wide variety of mouse devices listed there will give you a good idea of all the functions and help you narrow down your choice.
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I have a mouse collection on eBay, just for the fun of it – see some of my pics

See my Collection here http://www.ebay.com/cln/plfbus/Fun-Fancy-Mouse-Collection/66866785015

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Did you make any New Year resolutions last year? If you did, how did you go with them? Did you achieve them all, some of them, partly some of them or did they mostly fall by the wayside?

The start of a new year is often the time when we are fired up with enthusiasm to make changes in our lives, but after a few weeks of getting back into our usual routine, we maybe just slip back into the same old ways.

Why is this? Perhaps we had too many resolutions (goals) and it was overwhelming. Or perhaps the goals were unrealistic or too complicated to achieve in a year’s time.

It’s so easy to come up with reasons (excuses) why we let our enthusiasm slip; I’m sure these will sound familiar:

I don’t have time / I’m too busy
I don’t have enough money
It’s not my fault – (someone else) stopped me from doing it
It was too hard / harder than I expected
I’ll do it later
I don’t know how
It’s just not “the right time”

BUT – it doesn’t have to be like that. If we really want to make change, there are some proven ways to go about it.

Instead of having a lot of new year’s resolutions, pick just one, or perhaps two, but it is better to work on one at a time. Think about what you want to achieve; see it in your mind, imagine that you have already reached this goal.

SMART is an acronym for goal-setting to make it easy to remember.

S – Specific
M – Measurable
A – Attainable
R – Realistic
T – Timely

For example, if you want to earn more money so you can give up your day job, start with “earn $50 more every week by 31st March 2009″ or if you want to lose weight, have a goal to “lose 5kg or pounds by the end of January”.

Both of these goals would pass the SMART test.

The more specific you are about anything you want to achieve, the easier it will be to keep on track and be able to measure how you’re going with it.

Naturally a goal must be something it is possible for you to achieve, but you also need to be realistic about how long it will take to achieve. If you want something that doesn’t seem realistic, break the goal down into smaller manageable chunks and work on one at a time. When that is completed, start on the next chunk.

Small steps + consistency  =  success

If you don’t achieve your objective in the set time, don’t just slip back to the excuses, just take a realistic look at what happened, and set a new milestone date.

Demonstrated ways to help you as you go along:

  • Write your goals down and look at them every day, several times is better
  • Use a notebook, a small card to carry round or tape them to a wall or mirror
  • Read out aloud – this helps to fix them in your subconscious mind
  • Tell someone else – having someone ask you how it’s going will keep you trying
  • Believe that you deserve to achieve this goal
  • Respect yourself enough to keep your commitments
  • Act as if you have already achieved your goal, imagine it in your mind, feel how it will feel. Put as much emotion into your visualisations as you can – you might be surprised how much this can help.

So as you start the new year, set SMART goals and use the hints above to help you achieve them. Make 2009 will be the best year ever!

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